Oregon Trail Heaven

            As I mentioned last time I had to go to Scottsbluff in Nebraska for business last February and my drive across I-80 turned out to be more entertaining than most people would believe. The second half of our journey started when we veered off I-80 and headed northwest on highway 26.

Scenic Nebraska

            If you haven’t figured it out yet I am a little bit in love with the Oregon Trail and for me, getting to walk and stand where the pioneers were and see what they saw is my goal when on vacation. So, for me, highway 26, which passes multiple Oregon Trail sites, is heaven. There are major landmarks along this highway, Courthouse and Jail Rocks, Chimney Rock and Scottsbluff. Ash Hallow is also located along this section.

            I knew as we drove the highway I would see these historic places, what I did not expect were the river bluffs. Highway 26 follows the North Platte closely. We turned onto Highway 26 and almost immediately began climbing hills.  After we crested the hill, I thought we had topped a simple change of elevation, but I was genuinely shocked when we came upon a severe drop down to the river below. It was beautiful and breathtaking. Nebraska is definitely not flat and even more than that, even in February it was beautiful.

Chimney Rock

            As we wound toward Scottsbluff we passed by Ash Hallow and I really began to feel that thing. That feeling you get when you know you’re standing on historic ground and you know what people went through when they were also standing there. The feeling grew as we continued on our journey.

            Next, we came upon Courthouse and Jail Rocks. These monoliths were significant trail markers that guided the pioneers on their journey. I saw these natural monuments, felt excited, and connected in a way I did not feel along I-80. I was seeing what they saw 165 years ago. We   This rock is incredibly distinctive; the top stretches in a thin column toward the sky, and sits virtually alone on the landscape standing out as a haven, a stopping place, and an important historic landmark. Next we approached Chimney Rock, the next monument along the trail, which you can see for miles before you actually reach it.

            The site is a National Park Service and has a Visitor’s Center loaded with things to entertain and teach. The Ethel and Christopher J. Abbott Visitor Center has museum exhibits, a video that tells the story of the Oregon Trail, and even has an interactive activity where you can pack your wagon for the Oregon Trail. This a unique site and definitely worth some time during your travels.

            We completed our journey in Gering, next door to Scottsbluff, Nebraska. Gering is home to a wonderful museum that features a history of agriculture and the plains. The Legacy of the Plains Museum is a new creation.  The museum is a combination of the agriculture museum and the Museum of the North Platte. The Legacy of the Plains Museum houses a huge collection of agricultural equipment they still use to raise crops on the property. The rest of the museum covers the history of the plains in Wyoming, Nebraska, Colorado, Kansas. The Museum building is brand new and they have a wonderful video that discusses different aspects of Plains history from farming, Native Americans, pioneers, cities, to art.

View at Scottsbluff

          Next door to the Legacy of the Plains Museum is Scottsbluff National Monument. The two actually share a boundary and making a day of seeing both is what I recommend. Both sites have multiple events throughout the year and any of these would be a wonderful time to visit. Scottsbluff has multiple trails that lead up and around the bluff. Any of these offer wonderful views of the river valley and the neighboring towns of Scottsbluff and Gering. We weren’t able to hike the trails at the monument because they were closed due to the recent snowfall. I have e very intention of return to the area and spend several days exploring the history and nature of the area. I was only able to spend one day in Scottsbluff and that is not nearly enough time. We’ll need several days, as will you, to see and take in the beauty and importance of this area of Nebraska.

            As we drove away from the Oregon Trail monuments we’d discovered on our business trip I couldn’t help but wish we’d had days to spend in the area so that I could savor that feeling of connection I’d found there. I know I will be returning to experience again that feeling of connection and discover more things I hadn’t expected to find. The Plains are full of places to see and experience that you might never have thought of before. I encourage you to plan your next vacation with care so you don’t miss any of the entertainment and sites the area has to offer.

VC Parking Lot at Scottsbluff

From Parking Lot at Scottsbluff

Leaving Scottsbluff, headed south

Driving Across Nebraska

           Earlier this year I had to drive across Nebraska to Scottsbluff for work. While I usually like to take my time on drives in order to enjoy the quirky little things you find along the way, but this trip we were on a timeline and so we couldn’t take the Lincoln Highway Historic Byway, otherwise known as highway 30. I wanted to take this highway because there are many things to see, including Oregon Trail sites. Since we had to take Interstate 80 I was a little disappointed, but I discovered that even the interstate can be entertaining.

            I have heard the drive across Nebraska described as boring, dull, and interminable. I discovered that all those opinions were wrong. I can see how if you see Nebraska as merely means to an end at a ski resort or mountain retreat you might describe it that way, but I found I-80 rather beautiful and entertaining.

            As we traveled along, we were delighted to discover that there are a number of things to enjoy along I-80. The first thing we discovered that I wanted to share was the Archway at Kearney. This impossible to miss site literally spans the interstate and is intriguing from several miles away. The Archway is a log structure that houses a multimedia journey through the Great Plains. We discovered things we didn’t know about the Great Plains and it was a nice distraction from the fact that we couldn’t stop and see historic Fort Kearney. I highly recommend this unique stop on I-80.

            Another interesting thing we discovered was Fort Cody Trading Post. This “fort” is a large wooden stockade guarded by mannequin cavalry officers, one who is hanging over the wall in a bad and hilarious situation. A giant Buffalo Bill Cody watches over the site, standing tall and slightly arrogant within site of I-80.  The trading post is located in North Platte and was too intriguing for us to pass up.

            There was no Fort Cody of course, but this stockade looks like something right out of the Wild West. There were cavalrymen watching over us as we entered the arrow-ridden fort through the modern glass doors, and since we weren’t sure what we were going to find inside the fort we were pleased to discover a plethora of things to look at, do, and buy. This trading post is exactly what it says it is and so much more. Inside there were thousands of souvenirs you can buy. They have rocks that have been tumbled, geodes, and rough gems. They also have “native American” souvenirs like drums and more. They have fortuneteller machines like the one in Big and they have actual artifacts from the real Wild West for you to see. In addition to all that, there is the World’s Largest Miniature Wild West Show.  This mechanical wonder is sure to aw you and your family.  Out back of the fort is a picnic space with a jail, cabin, and a large Indian chief.  This space is perfect for letting the little ones who have been cooped up in the car burn off some of their energy.  

            Along our drive I was pleased to discover that not only were there wonderfully entertaining stops, I-80 is also more scenic than people think.  Whoever said Nebraska was a flat expanse of cornfields was not paying attention.  For most of Interstate 80 the Platte River winds along next to the highway creating wonderful vistas and bird watching opportunities. As we traveled along there were thousands and thousands of birds resting on the gentle hills surrounding the Platte.

            Just before North Platte the Platte River splits into the North and South Platte and the North Platte heads off toward Scottsbluff, and the South winds its way to Colorado. Each river dug into the bedrock creating wonderful hills and vistas. Our journey along I-80 ended at Ogallala where we veered north along highway 26 to Scottsbluff.  I was not disappointed to turn northwest because Highway 26 passes by numerous historic sites for the Oregon Trail and because I knew I would get to experience the delights I’d found along I-80 after business was concluded and we headed east again. So next time you sigh because you have to drive across I-80 to get to your “real” vacation destination don’t overlook the treasures you can find along this highway.

Plan Your Next Kansas Vacation Using This

It’s been awhile since I posted, I know, but you know how life can get, parents get sick, work gets busy, etc. Well, now that everything is leveling off I’d like to get back to telling you all about all the great places to visit on the Plains.  Despite the fact that I haven’t had time to post, I have had time to travel a little.

As much as I enjoy my work, I really love traveling. I’m sure we all do. I’m always looking for new places to travel, and I have a travel tip that will help you all plan your own travels as well.  

Recently I was in Kansas and I attended the Kansas Sampler Festival, held the first weekend in May every year. The Kansas Sampler Foundation puts on this festival, and it highlights the places to see and visit in Kansas. The festival this year was in Wamego, Kansas.  The festival is in the same location for 2 years. Next year the festival will be held in Winfield, Kansas, south and east of Wichita.

The festival has something for everyone, wine tasting, hand-made crafts, locally produced foods, and multiple CVBs and other travel-oriented organizations. There are shows and performances as well as food and merchandise vendors. This festival is a wonderful trip for the whole family. It’s a wonderful way to see the different activities around the state and plan your next weekend trip.

I usually spend the day at the festival traveling around to the tents housing the regional booths. I collect the giveaways and brochures to all the places that interest me. I particularly enjoy the historical locations.  Did you know that you could practically travel the Oregon Trail across Kansas by car? Multiple locations commemorate the historic trail.  There are many guidebooks you can buy to help you. You can walk the trail in many locations and sometimes you can practically feel the people who traveled the trail when nothing by wind, prairie grass, and history surround you.

My favorite thing to do at the Kansas Sampler Festival, before I walk to all the booths, is to taste the different alcoholic offerings from around the state. I always do this first so that I am sure to be sober by the time I leave the festival. There are samples of wine and beer made in Kansas at wineries and microbreweries.  There are many, many wineries around the state and it would be easy to plan a wine tasting tour of Kansas, I recommend the fall when the colors are changing all over the state, or you could travel around to the microbreweries all over the state. Usually these locations serve local cuisine as well as their alcoholic offerings. Usually there are quaint B&Bs or nice hotels near these locations as well. 

If you live too far to attend the festival and see the different things to do in Kansas, the Kansas Sampler Foundation also published a book several years ago called the 8 Wonders of Kansas. This is spiral book with vivid images of Kansas and the description and location of places that were nominated for the 8 Wonders of Kansas contest. There were multiple categories and they provide a well-rounded view of the different types of things to see in Kansas: commerce, art, history, scenery, etc. You can see the list online at www.kansassampler.org.

Until next time, I hope you will check out the website for the Kansas Sampler Foundation and use it to plan your next trip to the Sunflower State when that wanderlust inside you takes over.

Interesting Museums to Visit

 Martin and Osa Johnson were a couple of, I guess explorers is the right word.  They were frequent travelers to Africa where they befriended the people there and experienced their culture.  They had many artifacts of their travels and in Chanute, Kansas there is a museum showcasing their travels.  Martin and Osa made movies of their travels which they play at the museum, and they also used to play these videos on local stations giving everyone in Southeast Kansas a taste of Africa. 

 Many of their artifacts are traditional masks and jewelry worn by tribal people.  They also have spears, poles, clothing, and animal tributes.  If you're wanting a taste of the exotic but don't want to travel outside the plains then a visit to this museum, which also has a railroad museum near by, will fulfill your wish. 

For the Gambler

The plains states have an advantage when it comes to satisfying the gambler's hungry spirit. There are a few destination casinos in the plains.  South Dakota has destination casinos including riverboat casinos.  Kansas has two destination casinos, one in the infamous Dodge City and one in convenient Kansas City.  Oklahoma has numerous destination casinos.  As an amateur gambler that has been to casinos in all three states and a few others as well, I have found that the quote unquote Indian Casinos have a much better payout than the corporate casinos.  If you prefer smaller casinos attached to bingo halls, all three states have those as well.  The Royal River Casino in South Dakota is near the Minnesota border.  The drive there is soothing and scenic and once you arrive you can take advantage of their room deals.  The rooms are clean and comfortable and when you make your reservation you can receive 20 dollars in play and 30 dollars toward food.  The casino offers a variety of games and the buffet has not only typical buffet fare but a pasta station as well.  Oklahoma has a wonderful destination casino right on the border of Oklahoma, Missouri, and Kansas called Downstream Casino.  In fact the parking lot is in Kansas.  They have a hotel which they are currently adding onto, and a variety of machines, both old and new.  Kansas has an Indian destination casino north of Topeka called Prairieband.  All these casinos have resort qualities like pools, golf courses, and activities other than gambling.  In addition to gambling these casinos are located near other activities as well.  The Royal River Casino is near Pipestone and just north of Sioux Falls where there are numerous activities.  The Downstream Casino is near several rivers where floating is a popular activity and near attractions like Big Brutus and Route 66.  So if you're an amateur or a semi-professional gambler or you just like a smaller, quieter environment the destination casinos or smaller Indian casinos just might be perfect for you. 
A Short List of Places to try your hand:
Downstream Casino and Resort near Miami, Oklahoma
Prairieband Casino and Resort north of Topeka on highway 75
Royal River Casino and Resort in Flandreau, South Dakota
Grand Lake Casino and Resort north of Grove, Oklahoma
White Cloud Casino near White Cloud, Kansas
Boothill Casino and Resort in Dodge City, Kansas
7th Street Casino in Kansas City, Kansas

Travel Tips for the Hungry Traveler

When traveling the plains there are a lot of towns, towns that most people refer to as quaint, that have hometown restaurants run by locals.  These diners and restaurants usually have wonderful food, atmosphere, and a low price.  In Leavenworth, for instance, there are several places to find wonderful local fare.  Homers, a diner with pull-up ordering and delivery or booths inside, has wonderfully greasy hamburgers that will take you back to childhood.  If you are not in the mood for diner fare, then a picnic at a local park also makes a nostalgic stop.  In most small towns, there are local parks that have park benches or tables and picturesque views.  You could also take a blanket and eat on the grass.  

Parsons, KS Arboretum taken from http://www.parsonsks.com October 10, 2012

 When you are traveling across the state on one of the interstates, the rest stops have wonderful views and picnic tables as well.  If you are looking for a place to stop there are several places in Nebraska and Kansas that have wonderful parks that make great picnic stops.  Near Manhattan Kansas there is a place called Pillsbury Crossing that has a ford and swimming holes, and makes a wonderful family stop.  In Southeast Kansas in Parsons, a beautiful arboretum provides a picturesque backdrop for any meal.  In Schuyler, Nebraska, there are wonderful parks that provide a wonderful stop for the family.   

Pillsbury Crossing near Manhattan KS, Photo Taken from http://photo.net October 10, 2012

In Goodland, Kansas, there is Pioneer Park, adjacent to the famous Van Gogh painting, which provides shade, views, and a place for travelers to stop and picnic.  Ralston, Nebraska, also has a number of parks for tourist enjoyment, some with gazebos, some with tables, other provide areas for an alfresco luncheon.  When you travel as a family through this rural area of the country don’t limit your experience to McDonalds, Applebees, or Burger King.  Experience the charming atmosphere offered by local restaurants and parks, you won’t regret it.

Cathedral on the Plains

 St Marys Catholic Church in St Benedict, Kansas is a lovely spot, even to those who are not religious.  The cathedral is filled with religious icons in the form of paintings and statues.  There is a grotto outside the cathedral that tells the story of the WWII unit from St Benedict and the successful completion of their mission.  The place is both beautiful and peaceful.  The drive there also allows from spectacular views of the prairie and numerous historical markers and opportunities for side trips.  The town itself is small but offers charm to those visiting.  For even a fraction of the feeling one feels in the presence of the Sistine Chapel visit this lovely site.